#019

"PINCHE PUTTANESCA!"
LAST NIGHT, MY FRIEND ANTHONY AND I VISITED CHEF WON KIM IN THE OPULENCE OF HIS LINCOLN PARK KITCHEN.

THERE WERE ABOUT 15 OF US TOTAL, IT WAS A LITTLE TIGHT, BUT IT WAS FUN.

WON STARTED THE EVENING WITH A BRIEF TALK ABOUT ALL THE DIFFERENT INGREDIENTS WE WOULD BE WORKING WITH AND TASTING THAT EVENING. THEN HE MOVED ON TO SHOW US HOW TO PREPARE THE MEAL WE WOULD BE SHARING.

WE GOT HOOKED UP WITH A FEW DIFFERENT TASTES OVER THE TWO OR THREE HOURS WE WERE THERE. CHEF HAD A COUPLE OF HOMIES SHUCKIN' BLUE POINT AND KUMOMOTO'S TO GET US STARTED. OYSTERS WERE SERVED WITH 3 ACCOMPANYING SAUCES. THE STANDARD COCKTAIL WITH A LEMON SQUEEZE WAS MY #1 PICK IN THE DRAFT. THE "KITCHEN SINK" MIGNONETTE WASN'T BAD EITHER.

ONCE EVERYBODY GOT A GOOD OYSTER BUZZ GOING, WE MOVED ONTO BIGGER THINGS.

NEXT UP, WON THREW DOWN WITH A QUICK-FIRE FISH FRY. IT WAS LIKE WATCHING A LIGHTNING STORM IN THE KITCHEN. HE HAD THE FISH UP IN 4 MINUTES. WE WOLFED THAT DOWN, SIPPED SOME PAIRED SIZZZURBS, AND IT WAS ONTO THE NEXT ONE.

NOW, I DON'T HAVE THE TIME TO REGALE YOU WITH THE ENTIRE NARRATIVE OF OUR AMAZING EVENING, BASTING IN THE GLORY OF WON'S FOOD. SO, I'M GONNA CUT TO THE PINCHE PUTTANESCA.

OF ALL THE THINGS I SAMPLED WITH WON & CO., LAST NIGHT, THE TASTE THAT LEFT THE GREATEST IMPRESSION ON ME WAS HIS PUTTANESCA SAUCE. SO, I HAVE DECIDED TO SHARE A TAKE ON THE CLASSIC IN THIS HERE BLOGGING.

YOU'RE ACTIN' KINDA' SAUCY TODAY.

THE HISTORY OF PUTTANESCA IS BLURRY. THERE ISN'T MUCH PROOF OR PRINT TO POINT TO AN EXACT TIME OR PLACE. BUT, WHAT WE DO KNOW IS THAT SUGO ALLA PUTTANESCA, LITERALLY TRANSLATES TO "A WHORE'S SAUCE." OOOOKAY. MOVING ON.

MOST RESEARCH STATES THE SAUCE STARTED GAINING STREET CRED BETWEEN THE 1950-60'S. YET, SOME SAY THAT THEY HAVE NONNA'S WHO SWEAR THE DISH GOES BACK MORE THAN 90 YEARS. 

ONE ACCOUNT SAYS THE SAUCE ORIGINATED FROM AN ISCHIAN KITCHEN AT THE HANDS OF SANDRO PETTI, THE CO-OWNER OF RANCIO FELLONE.

SANDRO PETTI

SALUTE SANDRO!!

I'M GONNA GIVE YOU GUYS THIS ONE THE WAY I LIKE TO KEEP MY SAVORY RECIPES. SIMPLE.

SUGO ALLA PUTTANESCA

TOMATO

TOMATO PASTE

OLIVE OIL

GARLIC

ONION

OLIVES

ANCHOVIES

CAPERS

CHILI

HERBS

WHITE WINE(OPTIONAL)

COOKIN' AT THE WHORE HOUSE

*NOTE: WORKING IN THIS WAY IS NOT FOR NOVICE COOKS. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE PRE-REQUISITES FOR THE ADVANCED CLASS, YOU WILL HAVE TO PASS/TEST OUT OF KITCHEN GEN ED. NINJAS MAY PROCEED TO THE METHOD.

THE METHOD

BRING A STURDY POT. IF YOU HAVE A LE CREUSET OR ONE OF THEM NICE COPPER JOINTS... BALL LIKE ME.

ALRIGHT. GET THE POT ON MEDIUM HEAT. ONCE IT'S GOOD AND HEATED, ADD SOME OIL. NOW THE ONION, GARLIC AND CHILI. SWEAT THIS OUT TIL YOU GET THAT GOOD SOFFRITO GOING. HIGHLY AROMATIC. ALMOST SEDUCTIVE.

NEXT. ANCHOVIES, CAPERS, OLIVES. NOW. WHEN I SHARE A RECIPE IN THIS WAY, AND I START IT OFF WITH A DISCLAIMER TO BEGINNERS... I HOPE THAT YOU ARE NOT READING THIS AND CONSIDERING THROWING ENTIRE OLIVES OR WHOLE HEADS OF GARLIC INTO YOUR SAUCE. THAT BEING SAID, LET'S CONTINUE.

WITH THE ONION AND THE WHAT HAVE YOU IN THE PAN, THINGS SHOULD BE SMELLING PRETTY, PRETTY GOOD. NOW, TOMATO PASTE. I LIKE TO ADD IT AT THIS STAGE SO THAT IT COATS ALL THE DELICIOUS BITS IN THE PAN AND BUILDS EVEN GREATER FLAVOR AS IT CARAMELIZES.

SOOOO. NOW THE TOMATOES. I PREFER SAN MARZANOS. I BUY THEM WHOLE & CANNED, AND CRUSH THEM BY HAND. MAYBE ONE YEAR MARIE AND I WILL GO TO ITALY AND PRESERVE SOME FOR OURSELVES AT THE SOURCE.

MT.VESUVIUS

IF YOU'RE USING WHITE WINE, POP THAT BOTTLE, POUR SOME FOR YOURSELF, DEGLAZE THE TOMATO PASTE AND ALL THE GOODNESS IN THE SAUCE POT, BRING THE CRUSHED TOMATOES, GET EVERYTHING INCORPORATED, BRING IT ALL TO A GENTLE SIMMER AND LET IT GO FOR ABOUT AN HOUR. REMEMBER TO STIR EVERY SO OFTEN TO AVOID BURNING THE BOTTOM.

WHEN THE SAUCE IS DONE, YOU CAN APPLY IT TO A WIDE VARIETY OF DISHES. THIS SUGO IS TRADITIONALLY SERVED ON TOP OF, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, SPAGHETTI.

CIAO.

-PETE

#18

"AND THEN IT CAME TO ME..."
BEEN WAKIN' UP SOMEWHERES BETWEEN THE 4-6 A.M., FOR NO GOOD REASON, FOR OVER THE LAST MONTH NOW. TODAY WAS NO DIFFERENT. 4:30 CAME AROUND THIS MORNING. THE LIGHTS WENT ON. I WAS UP. I SHUFFLED MY BARELY MOVING FEET, TO THE SMOKING PARLOUR -AT THE OTHER END OF OUR ESTATE- AND WATCHED SOME SOCCER REPLAYS. A FAILED ATTEMPT TO LULL MYSELF BACK TO SLEEP WITH THE OCEAN SOUNDS OF BARCA FANS AT CAMP NOU.

DEATH ROW
SO, I'M LAYIN' ACROSS THE CHAISE, IN THE PARLOUR, SLEEPLESS. I'M WATCHIN' MY BOYS ABSOLUTELY CRUSH REAL MADRID... AND THEN IT COMES TO ME...


I OFTEN ASKED COOKS I USED TO WORK WITH, "IF YOU WERE ON DEATH ROW, WHAT WOULD YOUR LAST MEAL BE?" I'D GET A LOTTA, "FRIED CHICKEN... STEAK & POTATOES..." ONE GUY IN PORTLAND, OR., SAID, "I'D ASK FOR SOMETHING LIKE BRAISED WHOLE LEG OF LAMB & POLENTA, OR CASSOULET." HIS REASONING WAS, THE COOKING TIME WOULD BUY HIM AT LEAST A FEW EXTRA HOURS, IF NOT ANOTHER NIGHT. SLICK.


BACK TO ME. SO I'M LAYIN' THERE. I'M REALLY MULLIN' OVER THIS ONE. WHAT WOULD IT BE? I STARTED TO THINK ABOUT THIS MORE DEEPLY...

WHAT'S THE LAST PLATE I WOULD WANT TO LAY EYES ON? SO MANY OF THE REPLIES I GOT OVER THE YEARS WERE MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, POINTING TO COMFORT FOODS. GRANDMA'S THIS, MOM'S HOMEMADE THAT... THANKSGIVING DINNER, IT GOES ON.

THE MORE I THOUGHT ABOUT THIS, THE MORE I BEGAN LEANING TOWARD A VIBRANT PLATE OF BARELY TOUCHED VEGETABLES.

A DECISION WAS MADE...

THE FINAL COUNTDOWN

AS A DEATH ROW INMATE, I WOULD CHOOSE TO HAVE MY LAST MEAL BE A VEGETARIAN DISH, PREPARED BY LULA'S, JASON HAMMEL. THE PRESENTATION WOULD COME FROM LE PIGEON AND LITTLE BIRD VETERAN, CHEVONNE BALL. 

PREPARED BY JASON, BECAUSE I REMEMBER THE TIME WHEN WE WERE SERVING CORN PUDDING AS A DINNER SPECIAL... WE DID THE FIRST ONE TOGETHER. HE HUNG A BORAGE FLOWER FROM THE END OF A STRING BEAN TO FINISH THE PLATE AND SAID, "SEE HOW IT LOOKS LIKE A LEAF, HANGING FROM A TREE'S BRANCH..." CRAZY. I WOULD WANT SOMEONE LIKE THAT MAKING THE LAST THING I SAW, OR ATE ON MY WAY OUT.

FOR PRESENTATION'S SAKE

I CALLED ON CHEVONNE FOR DINNER SERVICE BECAUSE I CAN SAY, WITHOUT ANY RESERVE, SHE IS THE FINEST SERVER I HAVE EVER HAD.

THERE'S A SUFI STORY OF A MAN WHO LOVES HEARING ABOUT THE STORY OF THE WINE WHILE HE DRINKS IT, MORE THAN THE DRINKING ITSELF...

CHEVONNE CAN TELL A STORY AT THE TABLE. SHE WON'T JUST STOP AT, "HERE'S YOUR POT AU FEU." IT WOULD ONLY BE ENOUGH IF YOU KNEW HOW MANY DAYS AGO THE CHEF STARTED THE PROCESS OF PREPARING THIS CROCK OF COMFORT, HOW MANY HOURS THE BRAISE TOOK, WHY ALL THE VEGETABLES HAVE SEVEN PERFECT SIDES, WHERE THE TERM "POT AU FEU" COMES FROM.

I WOULD WANT SOMEBODY TO TALK TO ME LIKE THAT BEFORE I GO.

LATE.

-PETE

#017

*FOUND THIS ONE IN THE ARCHIVES*


B-REAK, B-READ.


I'VE BEEN KEEPING A SUNDAY TRADITION WITH A FEW FRIENDS HERE IN LOGAN SQUARE FOR A LITTLE OVER A YEAR NOW. EVERY WEEK, WE GET OUR MINDS RIGHT, AND OUR HEARTS OPEN, WITH A BIG BOWL OF SOUP. 


LAST WEEK MARKED THE RESURFACING OF MY ALMOST FAMOUS POTATO LEEK SOUP. THE WIFE IS A HUGE FAN. SO, IT WAS HER GOOD LUCK WHEN WE WERE ASKED TO BRING A VEGETARIAN VERSION OF THE SACRAMENT TO THIS PAST SUNDAY'S SHINDIG...

"POTATO LEEK SOUP, GIVEN FOR YOU."
6 YUKON GOLD POTATOES
3 LEEKS
3 QTS. CREAM
5-6 SPRIGS OF THYME
4-5 CLOVES, GARLIC
1 ONION
2-3 BAY LEAVES
SALT & PEPPER
CREME FRAICHE
CHIVES


A CARPENTER'S TOOLS
BLENDER/FOOD PROCESSOR
CHINOISE/CHEESECLOTH

BEGIN BY POURING THE CREAM INTO A SOUP POT. CHOOSE ONE THAT IS NOT MADE FROM ALUMINUM. CREAM AND ALUMINUM DO NOT YIELD A PLEASANT RESULT. NEXT, PEEL, MEDIUM DICE AND ADD THE POTATOES TO THE CREAM.  
NOW THE LEEKS. CUT THE LEEKS LENGTHWISE, AND THEN CROSSWISE, INTO 1/2" STRIPS. DISCARD THE TAILS. YOU MAY SAVE THE GREEN TOPS FOR ANOTHER DAY IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR A WHITE SOUP. IF NOT, GET ALL THE LEEK PIECES INTO A LARGE MIXING BOWL, RINSE AND AGITATE THEM. ONCE THE LEEKS ARE LOOKING CLEAN, LIFT THEM FROM THE WATER TO A STRAINER AND ALLOW THEM TO DRIP DRY FOR A BIT.


WHILE THE LEEKS ARE DRYING, PEEL AND MEDIUM DICE THE ONION. ADD THIS TO THE CREAM AND POTATO. NOW THE GARLIC. PEEL THE CLOVES AND GIVE EACH ONE A GOOD SMASHING WITH THE HEEL OF YOUR PALM. (THIS WILL ACTIVATE MORE OF THE NATURAL OILS IN THE CLOVES.) GO IN WITH THE GARLIC. NOW THE BAY, THYME, SALT AND PEPPER.


BRING THE POT TO THE STOVE. START THE SOUP ON A MEDIUM FLAME, STIRRING OCCASIONALLY, IN ORDER TO AVOID BURNING THE BOTTOM. ONCE THE CREAM COMES TO A SIMMER, ADJUST THE FLAME, COVER THE POT AND ALLOW THE VEG TO COOK UNTIL TENDER.


AT THIS POINT, YOU WILL NEED THE BLENDER OR FOOD PROCESSOR. FIRST, DISCARD THE BAY AND PEPPERCORNS. NEXT, FILL THE VESSEL ABOUT HALF WAY WITH A FAIRLY EQUAL AMOUNT OF THE POTATO, THE CREAM, AND THE REST OF IT. PUREE THE INGREDIENTS UNTIL NICE AND SMOOTH. REPEAT THESE STEPS WITH WHAT'S REMAINING IN THE POT.


WHEN EVERYTHING HAS BEEN PUREED TO A SMOOTH CONSISTENCY, YOU MAY OPT FOR A RUSTIC SERVING, AND GO STRAIGHT TO THE THE BOWL... OR PASS THE SOUP THRU A CHINOISE, LINED WITH A BIT OF CHEESECLOTH. 


LET'S EAT! BRING THE CHIVES AND CREME FRAICHE. CUT THE CHIVES AS YOU LIKE. I PREFER BATONS.


ONCE THE SOUP IS IN A CUP OR BOWL, GARNISH WITH A DOLLOP OF CREME FRAICHE AND A BIT OF CHIVE. I ALSO LIKE TO FINISH WITH FRESHLY CRACKED BLACK PEPPER AND MALDON.


CHEERS.
-PETE

#016

IT'S NOT FOR ME, IT'S FOR MARIE.
THE WIFE HAS A STRONG AFFINITY FOR CHICKEN SALAD SANDOS. EARLIER THIS EVENING, I INDULGED HER CRAVING WITH WHAT MAY BE OUR BEST BATCH TO DATE. RIGHT NOW, WE'RE GONNA TAKE A FEW MINUTES TO BLATHER ABOUT HOW THIS HOLIEST OF HOLY CHICKEN SALADS CAME TO LIFE...

1 CHICKEN, OF QUALITY UPBRINGING
1 BUNCH CELERY
1 BUNCH PARSLEY
1 BAY LEAF
A FEW SPRIGS OF THYME
1 LEMON
FRESH BLACK PEPPERCORNS
SALT
A GENEROUSLY MEASURED PINT OF MAYONAISE


GATHER ALL THE INGREDIENTS. START WITH THE BIRD. IF YOU HAVE BEEN BLESSED WITH THE GIBLETS, SET THOSE ASIDE FOR ANOTHER TIME. RINSE THE CAVITY IF NECESSARY. SET THE BIRD IN A GOOD SIZE SOUP OR STOCK POT. COVER WITH COLD WATER. ADD THE BAY, THYME AND A FEW BLACK PEPPERCORNS.


START THE POT ON A MEDIUM FLAME. BRING THE WATER TO A GOOD SIMMER AND COVER. NOW LET'S FOCUS ON THE REST OF THE INGREDIENTS.

START WITH THE CELERY. BEGIN BY CUTTING AWAY THE TOPS AND TAIL. THE TAIL CAN GO IN THE TRASH. SOME PEOPLE USE THE TOPS FOR STOCKS. SOME PEOPLE FIND THE TOPS -ESPECIALLY THE LEAFY PARTS- IMPART A BITTER QUALITY AND DISCARD THEM. UP TO YOU. 


NOW, WASH AND THEN PEEL THE FIBROUS EXTERIOR OF THE REMAINING RIBS. ONCE ALL THE CELERY IS PEELED, ROUGHLY CHOP AND THROW A COUPLE STALKS INTO THE POT WITH THE BIRD. SMALL DICE THE REMAINING CELERY AND SET IT ASIDE IN A LARGE MIXING BOWL.


BRING THE PARSLEY. WASH, DRY AND PICK THE THE LEAVES FROM THE STEMS. THROW A FEW OF THE STEMS INTO THE POT WITH THE CHICKEN. RESERVE THE REST FOR A FUTURE STOCK. ROUGHLY CHOP THE LEAVES AND ADD THEM TO THE BOWL WITH THE CELERY.


NEXT THE LEMON. WITH A MICROPLANE, ZEST THE ENTIRE OUTSIDE OF THE LEMON OVER THE CELERY AND PARSLEY. SET THE LEMON ASIDE. SAVE FOR SQUEEZING.


TAKE A MOMENT TO CHECK ON THE BIRD. HOW'S HER BATH? IS IT TOO HOT? IS SHE BOILING TO A DRY, AWFUL DEATH? IS IT TOO LOW? IS SHE GONNA GET SICK? IS HER WATER ALL SCUMMY? DO YOU NEED TO SKIM IT? REMEMBER TO HAVE AN EYE ON HER, EVEN WHEN YOUR BACK IS TO HER.

OKAY. BRING THE MAYO. ADD IT ALL TO THE CELERY AND THE WHAT NOT. GET EVERYTHING NICELY INCORPORATED. TASTE, SEASON, COVER AND SET IN THE FRIDGE.


IF YOUR CHICKEN ISN'T READY YET, IT WILL BE SHORTLY. WHEN IT IS. TURN OFF THE FLAME. MOVE THE POT AWAY TO A COOL BURNER AND ALLOW THE CHICKEN TO REST IN THE COOKING LIQUID. THIS STEP CAN NOT BE OVER EMPHASIZED. MEATS THAT ARE COOKED IN LIQUID, MUST BE ALLOWED TO REST IN THAT LIQUID, UNTIL THEY ARE COOL ENOUGH TO HANDLE. THIS STEP ENSURES THAT ALL OF THE FLAVORS AND NATURAL JUICES ARE ABSORBED BACK INTO THE FIBERS OF THE MEAT.

ONCE THE CHICKEN IS READY TO COME OUT OF THE LIQUID, SET IT OUT ON A PLATE AND ALLOW IT TO COOL COMPLETELY. WHILE THE CHICKEN IS COOLING, STRAIN THE COOKING LIQUID INTO A SMALLER STOCK POT AND REDUCE THIS INTO A FLAVORFUL CHICKEN STOCK. 


NOW, BRING THE BIRD. SKIN IT, AND PICK EVERY LAST TENDER MORSEL OF CHICKENY GOODNESS INTO THE BOWL WITH THE MAYONAISE JAMS. YOU CAN THROW THE PICKED BONES BACK IN WITH THE REDUCING STOCK.


GET EVERYTHING MIXED WELL AND SEASON TO TASTE. MAYBE A SQUEEZE OF LEMON.? MAYBE ANOTHER PINCH OF SALT.? MARIE AND I ENJOYED THIS WITH SLICED AVOCADO ON TOASTED BREAD AND DRANK ARNOLD PALMERS. A LITTLE SUMMER IN JANUARY. GOOD TIMES.

CHEERS.

-PETE

#015

A CASE OF THE MONDAYS:
THIS PAST MONDAY MARKED ANOTHER FUN-FILLED TRIP TO THE LOCAL WATERING HOLE FOR MY "MONDAY MORNING QUICK-FIRE MEDICINE CHALLENGE." SO FAR, I'VE PRESENTED MY FRIEND CHAD WITH PICKLED EGG BRINE, CHAMOMILE, CHICKEN STOCK AND MOST RECENTLY, A SANDWICH BAG WITH GINGER, GARLIC, BAY LEAF AND DRY ARBOL CHILE... THE RESULTS WERE A PLEASANT SURPRISE.

A SAVORY GAUNTLET:
1/5 CLOVE GARLIC, PEELED & SLICED
1/2" FRESH GINGER, PEELED & DICED
1 BAY LEAF, SEGMENTED 
1 ARBOL CHILE, DRY, SEGMENTED
SIMPLE SYRUP
HOT WATER
2 OZ. JURA 10 YR. SCOTCH


START WITH THE GARLIC. ONCE IT IS PEELED AND YOU HAVE A FEW SLICES OFF THE CLOVE, SKEWER THEM WITH A PARING KNIFE OR CAKE TESTER, WHATEVER YOU HAVE HANDY. NOW, FLAME ACTIVATE THE OILS IN THE GARLIC. BE CAREFUL NOT TO BURN THE SLICES. 


NOW THE GINGER. ONCE THE ROOT IS PEELED AND DICED, ADD IT AND THE GARLIC TO A PINT GLASS. MUDDLE THESE AND SET ASIDE.


MOVING ON, THE BAY AND ARBOL CHILE. BREAK THE BAY INTO SMALL SEGMENTS, SAME WITH THE CHILE. ADD THESE TO A TEA/COFFEE CUP. FILL THE CUP WITH HOT WATER, AS IF YOU WERE MAKING HOT TEA. COVER AND ALLOW THIS TO STEEP UNTIL FRAGRANT. ABOUT 5 MINUTES.


BRING THE BOOZE AND THE SIMPLE SYRUP. GATHER THE BAY-CHILE TEA AND THE MUDDLED GARLIC AND GINGER. ADD THE 2oz. JURA AND A SHOT OF SIMPLE SYRUP TO THE PINT GLASS. TOP THAT WITH THE TEA. GIVE EVERYTHING A GOOD STIR, STRAIN OFF THE GARLIC, BAY, ETC., AND GET TO SIPPIN'.

"OH DAMN. THAT'S GOOD!"
I WAS CERTAIN THE GARLIC HERE WOULD RUIN CLOSE TO ANY CHANCE CHAD HAD AT PULLING OFF A DECENT COCKTAIL, LET ALONE ONE I WOULD RECOMMEND OR TRY AGAIN. TO HIS CREDIT, HE PRODUCED A DAMN FINE DRINK.  


THE WARMTH OF THE GINGER, THE FAINT OIL OF THE FLAME ACTIVATED GARLIC, THE SAVORY BROTH CREATED WITH THE BAY AND CHILE...  NOT BAD, NOT BAD AT ALL.

CHEERS BRUV.
-PETE

#014

SHHHHHHHHH...
WITH THIS MORNING, CAME THE NEWS OF OUR FRIEND PAUL MC GEE'S EXIT FROM LOGAN SQUARE'S "THE WHISTLER." GIVEN THE GRAVITY OF THIS SITUATION, WE ARE HONORING PAUL'S DEPARTURE WITH A DAY OF SILENCE.

 AMEN.
-PETE

#013

"EXCUSE ME WAITER, THERE'S A BIRD ON MY BEER."
YOUR BOY PETE'S BEEN RACKING HIS BRAIN THIS MORNING. BLOGGING AIN'T EASY. AFTER A FEW PACES UP AND DOWN THE HALL AND A SHOT OF CABIN SWILL, IT CAME TO ME... THE BIRD GAME.


IT WASN'T THAT LONG AGO, THAT I WAS OUT IN OREGON, POSTING UP AT A POTLUCK IN SOUTHEAST PORTLAND ON A SUNDAY AFTERNOON. (GO FIGURE.) IT WAS HERE THAT I FIRST LEARNED OF THE SOUTHERN TRADITION KNOW AS "BEER-IN-THE-REAR."


I CAN'T PERSONALLY VOUCH FOR TEXAS OR MISSOURI OR ANYWHERE ELSE, AS FAR AS CREATIVE CREDIT IS CONCERNED. I CAN SAY, IT IS RARE WHEN YOU FIND A MORE SUCCULENT BIRD, OR GAME ANIMAL WITH A SKIN SO PERFECTLY CRISPED AS ONE PREPARED IN THIS WAY.

    "7th INNING STRETCH"


THE ABOVE MOUTHWATERING BEAUTY SPENT SOME TIME IN OUR KITCHEN A FEW WEEKS BACK. SHE WAS AN HONORED GUEST.


ALRIGHT, LET'S GET THIS ROAD ON THE SHOW...

BIRD GANG:

1 BIRD, OF GOOD ORIGIN & DESCENT
1 BEER, DEALER'S CHOICE
1 LEMON
1 SHALLOT
1 CLOVE GARLIC
A FEW SPRIGS OF ROSEMARY, PARSLEY & THYME
SALT & PEPPER
A BIT OF FLOUR, FOR GRAVY

I'M STUFFED:
GATHER ALL THE INGREDIENTS. CRACK THE BEER. HALF IS FOR YOU. HALF IS FOR THE BIRD. REMOVE THE ENTIRE TOP WITH A CAN OPENER. ROLL YOUR SLEEVES UP. LET'S GO.


START WITH THE BIRD. IF YOU HAVE A BIRD WITH OFFALS, YOU CAN SET THESE ASIDE FOR YOUR OWN PERSONAL PLEASURE, OR RINSE AND DROP THEM INTO THE BEER. I'LL EXPLAIN THE LATTER IN A MOMENT.


CUT THE LEMON IN HALF. RESERVE ONE HALF FOR SQUEEZERS. USE THE REMAINING HALF TO RUB THE ENTIRE SKIN AND CAVITY OF THE BIRD. NEXT, SEASON THE BIRD, INSIDE AND OUT.


AT THIS POINT, YOU'VE PROBABLY GIVEN YOUR CHICKEN A NAME. IF NOT, NOW'S AS GOOD A TIME AS ANY. YOU CAN ALSO SKIP ALL THIS NONSENSE AND COOK THE GODDAMN BIRD ALREADY.


SET (INSERT THE NAME OF YOUR CHICKEN HERE) ASIDE AND GO BACK TO THE BEER AND THE REST OF IT. MAKE A BUNDLE OF THE HERBS. TIE THEM UP WITH SOME KITCHEN TWINE AND DROP THEM IN THE CAN. PEEL AND ROUGHLY CHOP THE GARLIC AND SHALLOT. ADD THESE TO THE CAN AS WELL. IF YOU DECIDED TO USE THE OFFAL IN THIS RECIPE, TOSS THEM IN THE CAN NOW. (THE BEER, AROMATICS, ETC., COMBINED WITH THE CHICKEN'S NATURAL JUICES, WILL MAKE A FINE GRAVY TO FINISH WITH.


BRING BACK THE BIRD. SET THE OPEN BEER IN A GOOD SIZED PAN. BIRD ON THE CAN, PAN IN THE OVEN. (425 DEGREES. TURN OCCASIONALLY.) MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH ROOM IN THE OVEN FOR THE BIRD TO BE FAR ENOUGH AWAY FROM THE WALLS TO AVOID BURNING, AND ENOUGH ROOM TO TURN IT WHILE ROASTING. 


WHEN THE COOKING IS FINISHED, YOU WILL BE LEFT WITH A SMALL BOUNTY OF DRIPPINGS. THESE SHOULD NEVER GO TO WASTE.

NOTE: SOME SOUTHERNERS FIND THAT THE BIRD LIKES TO "DANCE" WHEN IT GETS ON ON THE CAN. WATCH OUT FOR THIS. IT'S EASY TO END UP WITH A COUNTERTOP FULL OF BEER AND CHICKEN JUICE.


FINISHING MOVES:
ONCE THE BIRD IS DONE DOING ITS THING, REMOVE IT FROM THE OVEN. WHEN SHE'S COOL ENOUGH TO HANDLE, SET HER ON A CUTTING BLOCK. NOW THE GRAVY.


BRING THE ROASTING PAN. SET IT ON A BURNER. NOW THE BEER CAN. BE  CAREFUL. IT MAY STILL BE HOT. STRAIN THE REMAINING "LIQUOR" THROUGH A FINE STRAINER, SET ASIDE.


CLEAR THE PAN OF ALL BUT A FEW TABLESPOONS OF FAT. OVER GENTLE HEAT, SLOWLY WHISK IN SOME FLOUR. WHEN A ROUX BEGINS TO FORM, BROWN IT TO YOUR LIKING. NOW, BRING THE CHICKEN LIQUOR. WHISK THIS AND THE ROUX INTO GRAVY. 


MAKING THINGS LIKE GRAVY OR POLENTA IS A DYNAMIC PROCESS. RECIPES ARE GOOD STARTING POINTS, BUT IT IS IMPORTANT TO TRUST YOURSELF IN THE KITCHEN TO KNOW WHEN SOMETHING IS TOO WET OR DRY.  WHEN SOMETHING NEEDS SALT OR A SHOT OF LEMON. IF YOU ARE MAKING GRAVY FOR (YOUR BIRD'S NAME HERE) AND IT'S LOOKING A LITTLE DRY, ADD SOME BEER, OR MORE STOCK. GABISH.? 


I LIKE TO HAVE THIS DISH WITH CRUMBLED POTATOES AND WILTED GREENS. ZESTING A LITTLE LEMON OVER THE PLATE BEFORE SERVING DOESN'T HURT EITHER. YOU COULD EVEN TEAR SOME SOFT HERBS OVER ALL OF IT. WHY NOT.?

BGAAAAAAWWWK!
-PETE

#012

THE BIBLE:
A FEW YEARS AGO, I DISCOVERED TWO COOKBOOKS THAT I NOW CONSIDER THE OLD AND NEW TESTAMENT OF GOOD COOKING. IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER, THESE BOOKS ARE... PAUL BERTOLLI'S, "COOKING BY HAND" AND JAMES BEARD'S, "AMERICAN COOKERY."

NO COOK SHOULD LIVE WITHOUT THESE TWO TREASURES.


TODAY I'M SHARING A PIECE FROM BEARD'S BOOK. THIS ONE IS FOR SAUTEED RABBIT WITH BACON AND SOUR CREAM. I DECIDED TO INCLUDE HIS INTRO TO THE DISH, AS THEY CAN OFTEN BE JUST AS MUCH FUN AS TRYING OUT THE RECIPE.

A QUICK WORD ON RABBIT:
WILD RABBIT OR YOUNG HARE USED TO BE EXTREMELY PLENTIFUL AND STILL IS IN SOME PARTS OF THIS COUNTRY. IT HAS NEVER BEEN AS POPULAR A GAME FOOD HERE AS IT HAS BEEN IN EUROPE OR EVEN IN MEXICO, OR CANADA. MAYBE IT'S DUE TO OUR WORSHIP OF THE EASTER BUNNY, OR POSSIBLY TO OUR MAKING PETS OF RABBITS. AT ANY RATE, IT IS AS DELICIOUS AS SQUIRREL, IF YOU LIKE SQUIRREL, AND IF YOU ARE IN A REGION WHERE IT IS OF GOOD SUPPLY, AVAIL YOURSELF THE OPPORTUNITY TO EAT A GREAT DEAL OF IT.

RABBIT SEASON:
1 YOUNG RABBIT OR HARE
1/2 C. FLOUR SEASONED WITH; 1 tsp. SALT, 1/2 tsp. FRESH GROUND PEPPER, 1 1/2 tsp. DRY MUSTARD, 1 tsp. THYME
5-6 RATHER THICK SLICES OF BACON
1/2 C. CHICKEN OR BEEF STOCK
1 C. SOUR CREAM
2 tbsp. CHOPPED PARSLEY

THE EASTER BUNNY, OR, "WHAT HAPPENED TO FLUFFY?":
CUT THE RABBIT INTO SERVING PIECES. SHAKE THE PIECES WELL IN A PLASTIC BAG WITH THE SEASONED FLOUR. SAUTE THE BACON UNTIL JUST CRISP. REMOVE THE MEAT AND KEEP IT WARM IN SOME ABSORBENT PAPER. HEAT THE BACON FAT AND BROWN THE RABBIT PIECES IN THE FAT ON BOTH SIDES. REDUCE THE HEAT AND ADD THE STOCK. COVER THE PAN AND SIMMER 10-15 MINUTES, OR UNTIL TENDER. TRANSFER TO A HOT PLATE AND SKIM OFF ALL BUT 2 TBSP. FAT FROM THE PAN. ADD THE SOUR CREAM, CHOPPED PARSLEY AND SALT. STIR OVER MEDIUM HEAT TILL WELL MIXED AND HEATED THROUGH, DO NOT BOIL.

SPOON THE SAUCE AROUND THE RABBIT AND SERVE WITH MASHED POTATOES AND CORN OYSTERS.

HAPPY HUNTING!
-PETE

#011

IT'S A TODDY, IT'S A TODDY, IT'S A TODDY!
HATS OFF TO MARIE A.K.A "THE WIFEY" FOR THE TITLE. WE'VE BEEN DRINKING THE LIONS' SHARE OF BOURBON, HONEY, HOT WATER AND LEMON AROUND HERE LATELY. ONCE IN A WHILE I ADD FRESH GRATED GINGER, OR THIS MUTANT GINSENG WE GET FROM THE KOREAN HOMIE AROUND THE WAY.


A TRADITIONAL HOT TODDY IS SIMPLY WHISKEY, HOT WATER, HONEY/SUGAR AND LEMON. WE LIKE TO USE OLD GRAND DAD 100. GOOD OLD SPOILED MARIE HAS TO HAVE HERS WITH JAMESON 12 YR. I ALSO PREFER SOME GOOD, RAW HONEY AND FRESH SQUEEZED LEMON JUICE.


WE'RE GOING TO SHARE TWO RECIPES HERE TODAY. THE FIRST IS A POTENT HEALER. IT BRINGS THE MUTANT GINSENG, LEMONGRASS, ALL TYPES OF GOOD SH*T. THE SECOND IS FOR THE BOOOOOZE HOUNDS. A FISTFUL OF BOURBON, A BIT OF WATER, LEMON AND SWEETNESS... DONESIES.


THE FREE CLINIC:
CABIN STILL WHISKEY
LEMON JUICE
GOOD, RAW HONEY
FILTERED, COLD WATER
GINSENG 
GINGER
LEMONGRASS


THE PILL:
START BY HEATING THE WATER TO A DECENT SIMMER. ONCE THAT'S WORKING,  GATHER THE REST OF THE INGREDIENTS. I HAVEN'T LISTED AMOUNTS IN THE GROCERY LIST BECAUSE I USUALLY BUY IN BULK AND DRINK MYSELF TO SLEEP. HERE'S THE FORMULA FOR A SINGLE SERVING. YOU CAN MULTIPLY IT FROM HERE.


IN A PINT GLASS, COMBINE 2oz. WHISKEY, 1oz. LEMON JUICE AND HONEY TO TASTE. USE THE SIDE OF A SPOON TO PEEL THE GINGER. GRATE OR ZEST THE PEELED ROOT OVER THE GLASS AND INTO THIS MIRACLE DRINK BASE. I LIKE TO USE ABOUT AN INCH WORTH. 


ONCE THE WATER IS AT A GOOD SIMMER, CUT A FEW PIECES OFF THE LEMONGRASS STALK. ADD THESE TO THE POT. TURN OFF THE FLAME. COVER AND ALLOW TO STEEP FOR 5-10 MINUTES. WHEN THE WATER IS FRAGRANT AND READY, REMOVE THE LEMONGRASS, ADD THE TEA TO THE DRINK BASE.


IF YOU HAVE THE GOOD FORTUNE OF HAVING A HOMIE WHOSE MOM HOOKS IT UP WITH THE MOST HIGHLY PRIZED GINSENG IN THE WORLD, CUT OPEN A POUCH AND ADD THAT TO THE MIX. IF NOT, DON'T SWEAT IT. THE JOONG BOO ON KIMBALL AVE. HAS SOME PRETTY SERIOUS JUICE.

I LIKE TO STIR ALL THE INGREDIENTS WITH A COOKING CHOPSTICK AND DRINK IT AS IS. SOME OF YOU MAY WANT TO GET YOURSELF A FINE STRAINER AND GET THE GINGER OUT. I WOULD SUGGEST ROUGH CHOPPING THE GINGER AND THROWING IT IN WITH THE LEMONGRASS INSTEAD.





CRUNK NITE:
OLD GRAND DAD 100,  BONDED
COLD, FILTERED WATER
LEMON JUICE
GOOD,  RAW HONEY

SAME THING. START THE WATER. BUILD THE TODDY BASE IN A PINT GLASS. WHEN THE WATER IS SIMMERING, REMOVE IT FROM THE HEAT AND TOP OFF THE PINT GLASS. STIR AND ENJOY. 


NOTE: THIS ONE IS UP TO YOU. I'VE BEEN KNOWN TO ADD 4-5 OUNCES OF BOURBON AND A BEEHIVE WORTH OF HONEY. JUST POUR IT UP AND GET TO SIPPING.




THIS HANDSOME DEVIL IS DEREK ALEXANDER. HE'S PRETTY HOT SH*T IN LOGAN SQUARE. THIS IS VINTAGE FOOTAGE FROM LIKE 100 YEARS AGO... BEARS!


NITEY NITE.
-PETE        

#010

GET YOUR MIND RIGHT, GET YOUR HEART OPEN.


THERE'S A SOUTHERN TRADITION OF EATING BLACK-EYED PEAS AND GREENS TO BRING GOOD FORTUNE IN THE NEW YEAR. LAST NIGHT, I CELEBRATED THIS TRADITION WITH A FEW CLOSE FRIENDS AND THE WIFEY. TODAY, I'M SHARING OUR RECIPE WITH YOU. HAPPY NEW YEAR!


PORK & BEANS:
1.5 LBS PORK SIDE, BACON, WHATEVER
3 16oz. CANS/6C. DRIED, BLACK-EYED PEAS
2 BUNCHES GREENS (COLLARDS, KALE, WHATEVER)
1 SWEET ONION
5-6 STALKS OF CELERY
1 RUTABAGA
1 CELERY ROOT
2 YUKON GOLD POTATOES
6-PACK OF BEER, DEALER'S CHOICE
SALT & PEPPER
LEMONS, FOR THE SQUEEZING
SAMBAL (OPTIONAL)


LET'S GO:
START BY GETTING EVERYTHING IN PLACE. THINLY SLICE THE ONION. CUT THE CELERY ON THE BIAS. PICK AND CLEAN THE GREENS. SHAVE THE CELERY ROOT, RUTABAGA AND POTATO. YADDA YADDA YADDA. IF USING DRIED LEGUMES, IT IS GOOD TO GIVE THEM AN OVERNIGHT SOAK OR QUICK BOIL.

THE TRABAJO:
BRING THE PORK PRODUCT AND A GOOD SIZED SOUP POT. GENTLY BROWN THE MEAT AND RENDER THE FAT. FROM HERE, GOOD COOKS WILL DRAIN AND RESERVE THE FAT. AFTERWARDS, ROUGHLY CHOP THE PORK AND RETURN IT TO THE POT. LIFT THE FOND WITH THE CELERY AND ONION. SCRAPE REMAINING BROWN BITS FROM THE BOTTOM WITH A WOODEN SPOON.


ONCE THE ONION AND CELERY ARE SOFTENED, GO IN WITH THE REST OF THE VEG, PEAS, ETC. GIVE EVERYTHING A STIR, GET IT GLISTENING WITH THAT GOOD FAT.


NEXT THE BEER. THE RECIPE CALLS FOR A 6-PACK. WHEN I MADE THIS DISH, I BOUGHT A BUBBA KEG OF STEIGL, POURED THE BEER TO COVER EVERYTHING AND TOOK THE REST TO THE DOME. ALL BEER. NO WATER. NO STOCK. YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE THOSE IF NEEDED, BUT I THINK THIS WAS A DAMN FINE SOUP.


ONCE THE BEER IS IN, BRING EVERYTHING TO A SIMMER AND GENTLY COOK THE SOUP UNTIL EVERYTHING IS TENDER AND DELICIOUS. FINISH WITH A SQUEEZE OF LEMON JUICE AND A SPOONFUL OF SAMBAL, IF DESIRED.


WE FED 4-5 PEOPLE, HAD SECONDS AND LEFTOVERS OFF ONE POT.  

HAPPY NEW YEAR BEEEE-ITCHES!
-PETE

#009

"BUTTER THAT BACON BOY."

MANY OF MY FRIENDS OFTEN ASK ME WHEN I'M GOING TO START MAKING BACONS AGAIN. I KEEP TELLING THEM IT'LL HAPPEN AS SOON AS I GET DONE WITH ONE THING OR ANOTHER.


THE AWESOME STRESS AND SPENDING SPREE WE CALL CHRISTMAS IS MY MOST RECENT ALIBI FOR NOT GETTING AROUND TO IT. SINCE I WANTED TO GET AT LEAST ONE NEW BATCH UP BY THE END OF THE YEAR, AND I HAVEN'T AND THERE'S NOT A SNOWBALL'S CHANCE IN HELL I'M GOING TO, THE LEAST I CAN DO IS SHARE A RECIPE.


READERS PLANNING TO ATTEMPT THIS RECIPE SHOULD KNOW THIS IS JUST ONE RECIPE. THIS IS NOT MY SECRET RECIPE, OR ANYONE ELSE'S FOR THAT MATTER. THIS A STARTER KIT. ONCE YOU UNDERSTAND THE PROCESS, YOU CAN BEGIN EXPERIMENTING WITH NEW IDEAS. 


BRINES, CURES AND GLAZES ARE A FEW ELEMENTS TO TOY WITH. YOU CAN ALSO WORK WITH DIFFERENT TYPES OF WOOD. I USED TO TRADE BACON FOR FALLEN FRUIT WOODS FROM KLUG FARM. APPLE. CHERRY. EVEN PEACH. EACH ONE GIVES THE BACON A SUBTLE, NEW FLAVOR. I ENDED UP PREFERRING CHERRY.


THE CURE:
1g PINK SALT:1# MEAT
GROUND BAY/PEPPERCORN, BROWN SUGAR, KOSHER SALT


*NOTE: I USUALLY EYEBALL THE BAY, PEPPERCORN, ETC. BASED ON THE AMOUNT OF MEAT I'M WORKING WITH. BUT, IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THAT THE PINK SALT IS A CURING AGENT. IT DOES NOT ADD FLAVOR.


IF YOU ARE WORKING WITH 25# OF PORK BELLY, AND YOU ADD 25g PINK SALT TO THE CURE, YOU HAVE ADDED ZERO FLAVOR.

BACON CITY:
1. PORK BELLY 
2. BACON CURE
3. APPROPRIATE SHEET TRAYS/RESTING RACKS
4. FRIDGE SPACE TO HOLD TRAYS/BACON FOR 1 WEEK 
3. A SMOKER
4. WOOD FOR THE SMOKER
5. FIRE


FIRST, THE BELLY. IF THE SKIN HASN'T BEEN REMOVED, START THERE. IF IT HAS, SHAME ON YOU. WE COULD'VE MADE CRACKLINGS. THOSE REMOVING THE SKIN MAY RESERVE, DEHYDRATE AND DEEP-FRY IT INTO SNACKS. 


WHEN SKINNING LARGER CUTS, IT'S HELPFUL TO SCORE THE SKIN INTO SMALLER SECTIONS AND GENTLY REMOVE IT WITH AS FEW EVEN MOVEMENTS AS POSSIBLE. WORKING THIS WAY WILL CREATE LESS WASTE AND A SMOOTH SURFACE ON THE BELLY. ALSO, HUMAN BODY HEAT IS HIGH ENOUGH TO RENDER FAT AND LEAVE DENTS IN THE SURFACE OF THE BACON. HANDLE THE BELLY AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE TO GUARANTEE GOOD RESULTS.


NOW THE CURE. THOSE WORKING WITH MORE THAN ONE SECTION OF BELLY WILL FIND IT BEST TO DEAL WITH ONE AT A TIME. WEIGH THE PIECES INDIVIDUALLY. SET ASIDE. MULTIPLY 1g PINK SALT x 1# MEAT. RECORD THE RESULTS. BACK TO THE LAB.


BRING THE PINK SALT AND A GOOD AMOUNT OF THE CURE BASE. WEIGH OUT THE APPROPRIATE AMOUNT OF PINK SALT, BASED ON THE RESULTS FROM THE FIRST EQUATION. COMBINE THIS WITH THE FIRST BIT OF THE CURE. WHEN MIXED WELL, GIVE IT THE OL' RUB DOWN.


FOLLOW THESE STEPS UNTIL THE BELLY HAS CURE APPLIED ALL AROUND. NOW, IT'S READY FOR REFRIGERATION.


SET UP THE TRAYS AND RACKS. ONE LAYER OF FUTURE BACON PER RACK, PER TRAY. ONCE ALL THE BACON IS LINED UP AND GOOD TO GO, COVER AND WRAP. THE BACON CAN SIT ON CURE FOR UP TO 7 DAYS. THE PROCESS SHOULD END NO EARLIER THAN 5, NO LATER THAN 7. 

SMOKEFEST:

GATHER THE WOOD. SOAK A BIT OF IT IN WATER. SET ASIDE. ADD SOME OF THE DRY WOOD TO THE SMOKER. GET A FIRE GOING. BACON NINJAS WITH FANCIER WEAPONRY MAY HAVE AN ELECTRIC START OR SOME OTHER GUCCI FEATURE. IF THAT'S THE CASE, GOOD FOR YOUS. LET'S SMOKE.


ONCE THE FIRE IS GOING AND THINGS ARE STARTING TO SMOKE PRETTY WELL, BRING THE WET WOOD. ADD THIS TO THE SMOKER. NICE, RIGHT.?


NOW THE BELLIES. AGAIN, THOSE WORKING WITH LARGER QUANTITIES MAY HAVE TO WORK IN BATCHES. I USUALLY HAVE TO DO AT LEAST 2 RUNS IF I'M WORKING WITH MORE THAN 1 BELLY. JUST MAKE SURE THAT EVERYONE HAS ROOM TO BREATHE AND THE SMOKER ISN'T OVERCROWDED. A TYPICAL BELLY, WEIGHING ABOUT 10-ISH LBS., TAKES ME A COUPLE HOURS. RESULTS MAY VARY.


IF EVERYTHING HAS GONE WELL UP UNTIL NOW, THE DEAL IS PRETTY MUCH SEALED. KEEP AN EYE ON THE SMOKER. DON'T LET THE BACON BURN. IF YOU HAVE MULTIPLE RACKS, AND ONE IS CLOSER TO THE HEAT THAN ANOTHER... IT'S GOOD TO ROTATE THE PIECES ONCE IN A WHILE.


ONCE THE BACONS ARE FINISHED, REMOVE, REST ON A RACK AND ALLOW TO COOL.

GET SOME.
-PETE

#008

"FLEMISH ROULETTE"
ME, THE MOMS AND THE WIFEY WERE OUT ON AN ALMOST BOXING DAY ADVENTURE THIS WEEKEND. WE STARTED THINGS OFF AT "JAM" IN LOGAN SQUARE. SOFT SCRAMBLED EGG AND CAVIAR.? YES, PLEASE.


BALLIN' OUT ASIDE, WE END UP AT LONGMAN WITH OUR GOOD FRIEND CHAD. CHAD GOES ON TO LAY THE FOLLOWING GEM ON US. WE ENDED UP NAMING IT "FLEMISH ROULETTE," EARLIER TODAY.


GET YOUR MIND RIGHT:
1 OZ. BITTER TRUTH E.X.R
1/2 OZ. CYNAR
3/4 OZ. ROSEMARY SIMPLE SYRUP
"MONK'S" FLEMISH SOUR ALE, TO FINISH


DO IT BIG:
POUR UP THE E.X.R, CYNAR AND ROSEMARY SIMPLE SYRUP IN A COLLINS GLASS WITH A FEW NICE CUBES. GIVE THE DRINK A GOOD STIR AND TOP IT WITH THE FLEMISH SOUR ALE. 


LESS ADVANCED STUDENTS MAY REQUIRE DIRECTIONS FOR THE SYRUP...


BASIC MATH:
COMBINE EQUAL PARTS COLD, FILTERED WATER AND RAW CANE SUGAR. BRING THE MIXTURE TO THE BOIL AND REMOVE FROM THE HEAT. THROW IN A FEW ROSEMARY SPRIGS, COVER AND ALLOW THE HERBS AND SYRUP TO GET ACQUAINTED.


ONCE THE SYRUP IS COOL, DISCARD THE ROSEMARY, FIND AN APPROPRIATE CONTAINER AND ADD THE WORK TO THE PANTRY.

CHEERS CHAD. DUST YOUR SHOULDER OFF.
-PETE